Discovering Chapel Hill on a Free Walking Tour: Stepping Back in Time

Did you know Chapel Hill was literally built for a university? That it is home to one of the oldest public universities in the United States, and that astronauts once trained here to walk on the moon?

These are just a few of the fun facts we discovered on a free walking tour of Chapel Hill, and it was hands-down one of the most informative, fascinating, and charming ways to experience this iconic college town.

Our tour guide, Sally, was born and raised in Chapel Hill (her dad being one of the original faculty to start University of North Carolina’s dental school) and attended UNC herself — so this wasn’t just a script, it was a walk through her personal story, woven deeply into the town’s fabric.

Sally created this historic Chapel Hill walking tour after retiring, turning her passion for local history into a fun way to share her hometown and connect with interesting people along the way. She was personable, friendly, and filled with great stories and Chapel Hill insights thanks to her in-depth research while putting together this tour – but also because she’s Carolina blue through and through!

We love a free walking tour as you get to connect with real people from the local community, who build custom tours based on their own experience of living there, offer a collaboration of history and local culture to visitors. Below are some of the fascinating things we learned on our tour with free walking tours of Chapel Hill.

A Tale of Two Towns: Students + Locals

Chapel Hill is home to 30,000 residents and 30,000 students. Sally joked that it’s “equal parts town and gown,” and after this tour, we believe it. What’s remarkable is how well the two communities work together to create the vibrant, progressive, and friendly town we’ve loved visiting for years.

It’s also apparent at how much they need each other, with 38% of businesses on Franklin Street closing during the pandemic thanks to students remote learning and no longer frequenting the stores and restaurants along the street.

With seemingly every 4^th store selling UNC merchandise, and restaurants, coffee shops and bars in between, Franklin St is a place that desperately needs students and residents roaming around. It took until the end of 2024 for all of those storefronts to be filled again and back in thriving status.

A College Town Rooted in History

UNC opened its doors in 1795 when George Washington was still president—making it the first and oldest public university in the country to welcome students. And get this: Franklin Street, the town’s main artery, was named after Ben Franklin… though he never visited.

The entire town was planned around the university, which explains the seamless integration of campus and downtown. From old faculty homes that now house fraternities to historic murals inside the post office, every step uncovers another layer of story.

One of my favorite stories from the tour — shared as we stood in front of the Parade of Humanity mural by beloved local artist Michael Brown — was about William Richardson Davie. Now, as Sally admitted with a smile, she can’t confirm whether it’s fact or fiction…but sometimes, why let the truth get in the way of a good story?

Legend has it that Davie, a firm believer that freedom cannot exist without education, feared the young American republic might slip back into British control without an educated citizenry. So, he tirelessly lobbied for the creation of a public university. Eventually, after wearing down the ears of those in power, they told him, “Fine — go find a spot in the middle of North Carolina.”

While out on his quest, Davie stopped to rest his horses and enjoy a picnic under a shady tree. He looked around, fell in love with the land, and realizing he was near the center of the state, declared: This is the place. And so, the site of what would become the nation’s first public university was chosen — not by compass or commission, but by a moment of rest and intuition.

There’s a tree that marks the spot on the campus called the Davie Poplar tree that slightly leans over. Legend says if it falls, the university will too. Not to fear, they’ve planted “backup trees” just in case. Davie Poplar 1 & 2 are standing nearby – the Plaques mark the spot.

Civil Rights, Culture, and Cosmic Training

Chapel Hill has always been a hub for change-makers. It played a quiet but critical role in the Civil Rights Movement, including a peaceful sit-in just three weeks after the famous Greensboro protests.

Nine young Black men sat at a whites-only lunch counter of the the Colonial Drugstore (now a wine bar on 450 West Franklin Street) for 90 minutes, weren’t served, but weren’t harmed either. They sang peacefully outside. That counter integrated, and a plaque now honors their legacy at the Peace & Justice Plaza in front of the post office.

It was while standing at the plaque at this site of Civil Rights history that I learned more about Dean Smith after inquiring as to why his name was honored on the plaque outside the Post Office for those who fought for peace and justice.

Sally informed me that Dean Smith was instrumental in integration and civil rights in the American south and recruited Charlie Scott as the first African American scholarship athlete at UNC-CH1 in 1967.

Inside the post office? Two stunning murals tell the small town’s origin story —including one painted by local artist Michael Brown, who’s left his mark across Chapel Hill. His massive “Parade of Humanity” mural spans a full block, with hidden details, humor, and heart that highlight Chapel Hill’s diverse soul.

Also worth mentioning: Morehead Planetarium, opened in 1949. From 1949–1975, 64 astronauts trained here, including the two who walked on the moon. It’s one of the top planetariums in the country. We had an afternoon visit planned so will share more in our upcoming 36 hours in Chapel hill guide! Subscribe to our newsletter so you don’t miss it:

Local Legends + Iconic Stops

This tour wasn’t just academic — Sally brought in heart, character, and culture. Like Sutton’s Drug Store, a Carolina institution since 1923, where the walls are lined with autographed jerseys of UNC basketballers, and Rob Lowe pops in when visiting his Duke student son.

Then there’s Julian’s, a high-end Carolina Blue tailor shop dating back to 1942. Dean Smith asked them to jazz up the team uniforms with some flair — and that’s how the team’s signature argyle pattern came to be. Today, they still make the team’s gear and UNC’s graduation gowns and some costumes for period movies.

Or the Carolina Coffee Shop — North Carolina’s oldest continuously operating restaurant, still serving up breakfast and winter hot chocolate dreams. It’s one of our favorite places to eat in Chapel Hill, especially for brunch, and we think their coffee shop next door has some of the best coffee in Chapel Hill.

Then there’s the Ackland Art Museum, a cultural gem with a story as unique as its collection. It was founded through the estate of William Ackland, an attorney from Tennessee who believed the South needed more access to fine art.

His generous donation came with one unusual condition — his body had to be buried inside the museum. His first choice, Duke University, declined the offer (not keen on the burial clause), but UNC stepped up to the plate. Today, you can visit Ackland’s final resting place in a quiet alcove of the gallery —surrounded by incredible works of art. I left feeling thoroughly enlightened… and just a little bit intrigued!

And in true forward-thinking Chapel Hill fashion, four new major businesses not dependent on university life were recruited to Franklin Street in case of another pandemic — ensuring the town remains vibrant even when students aren’t around.

If you want to learn more about the history of some of the buildings on Franklin Street and East Main Street look for the signs on windows with QR codes that will share the stories!

Hidden Gems on Campus

We wandered through Coker Arboretum, a once-swamp-now-botanical garden that spans five acres thanks to a determined UNC botanist who believed in beauty and education. It’s an oasis of peace and living proof that patience and persistence create magic. We were enamored and stunned that we had never heard of these gorgeous gardens in Chapel Hill.  

We stopped by the site of the first church on campus — one of the only red brick buildings that wasn’t painted over to match the university’s signature look.

Scattered around the outside were unexpected details: gargoyles and statues rescued from a restoration project at Big Ben in London. At the time, the church had been converted into the university’s art museum, and the art director — on vacation in London — thought these discarded treasures would make the perfect addition. A little bit of British history, right here in Chapel Hill.

And we learned about the “Master of the Canopy” — the person responsible for planting new trees before the century-old oaks and pines naturally phase out. A literal legacy in the making.

We can thank those who had the foresight to plant these trees over a hundred years ago so now we can enjoy the beautiful canopy that covers you everywhere you walk across the UNC campus. From repurposed churches to QR-coded historic buildings, it’s easy to go from quiet wonder to full-blown curiosity in a single block.

Would we recommend the free walking tour of Chapel Hill?

Of course, we would recommend the free walking tour of Chapel Hill – the tour was free! And offered multiple times a week. Of course, tips are greatly appreciated. For anyone visiting Chapel Hill — or locals who just want to really get to know their town and learn about some of the oldest buildings they probably walk past every day — it’s an experience worth making time for.

We left more connected to Chapel Hill than ever before. It’s not just a college town; it’s a town of stories, spirit, resilience, and radical charm. And we learned so much more than I was able to fit into this one article – take the tour to learn them for yourself!

This Chapel Hill walking tour is one of the best things to do in Chapel Hill! (reserve your spot on the tour here). And yes, when the tour ends, go get a hot chocolate or catch a Tar Heels game on Franklin Street. This town is always ready to welcome you — whether it’s your first visit or your fiftieth. It makes for a perfect day trip from Raleigh. And if you want more to explore check out these things to do in Carrborro, next door to Chapel Hill.

Want to stay at the best accommodation in Chapel Hill? You cannot look past the iconic Carolina Inn located on UNC’s campus and steeped in Tar Heel history. Read our review of the Carolina Inn. We loved staying there!